Brazil

Colombia was fun, but Brazil and I are sky high. Rio is something else. It’s beach days, street parties, and music that never turns off. Samba and funk beats in my chest. The energy is magic. And if you want to survive Rio learn a bit of the lingo. Don’t get caught off guard. Picking up some local phrases will save you from a whole lot of confusion in the city. Portuguese is no joke and Cariocas have their own way of talking. Relaxed, rhythmic, confident. Flip flops and a tan are the uniform, and its really hot.

Some key phrases to learn are:

Oi (oi) | Hi - an informal greeting

Olá (oo-lah) | Hello - a more formal greeting, same pronunciation as Spanish.

Tudo bem? (too-doh baang) | How are you? - the literal translation is ‘all good?’

Por favor (pour fa-voor) | Please

Obrigada (ob-ree-gah-da) | Thank you (for the ladies), Obrigado (ob-ree-gah-doo) (for the gents) - use the

one based on your own identity, not the person you’re speaking to.

Um, dois, trȇs (ohm, doys, trez) | One, two, three

Vamos (vah-moss) | Let’s go

IPANEMA BEACH 2024

RIO DE JANEIRO

Welcome to easily one of the sexiest cities in South America. Every day here feels like you’re living in a movie, and if I could I’d never leave. It’s the Cariocas that really make Rio what it is. The locals are chill, friendly, and have a great sense of humour. Punctuality isn’t their strong suit though. Whatever you're doing, whether you’re at a restaurant, hanging at the beach, or walking around, be ready to be approached by people begging or selling stuff. Rio’s pretty safe if you’re street smart. Yeah, pickpocketing happens but actual violence not so much, unless you’re wandering around the favelas or up north. I’ve seen locals using their phones openly but I've been told off for using it so don’t get too comfortable. Almost two devices are stolen every minute which is crazy.

For the safest vibes stick to Ipanema, Leblon, and Copacabana. The best way to see the city is by walking, and everyone just rocks thongs or comfy sneakers. Everyone is pretty relaxed here so keep the brands at home. I just wore a jersey and a denim skirt most days. Life was good.

BEACHES

Beach culture here isn’t just a vibe, it’s the whole lifestyle. The gringos are easy to spot, they’re the ones who aren’t showing enough skin. For Brazilians, the less clothes the better. And the best part is no one gives a shit. Doesn’t matter if you’re pushing 90 or rocking some extra weight, everyone’s in the same tiny bikini with no judgement. It’s actually so refreshing. You don’t even need to pack much because food, drinks, bikinis, whatever will all come to you. Brazilians are hustling along the beach every day, its basically a walking market.

The LGBTQIA+ community is big. You’ll find them out and proud especially in Ipanema and Copacabana. Between Posto 8 and 9 in Ipanema there’s a full-on gay beach made distinctly obvious with rainbow flags. Me and my friend ended up there by accident I don't know how. Never seen so many gay men hooking up in one spot.

Best beaches: Ipanema all the way. Copacabana might be the most famous, but Ipanema is the place to see and be seen. It’s full of beautiful people doing beautiful things. This is where you'd find me and my friend all day everyday. Had to get a henna tattoo with 'Thug Life' across my knuckles. Yes, it was dope. Chair prices are cheap everywhere (around 15 reais), and the cocktails are usually 20 reais. People play futevôlei and futmesa, a popular beach sport that combines soccer and volleyball. The best sunset spot is Praia do Arpoador. Big call, but I think it’s the coolest spot I’ve ever watched a sunset. I also really loved Praia do Flamengo beach. Completely different to Copacabana and Ipanema. It's a great spot for sports and has a sick view of Sugarloaf Mountain.

PRAIA DO ARPOADOR, RIO

THINGS TO DO IN RIO:

Favela tour
Selarón Steps by Chilean artist Jorge Selarón
Christ the Redeemer
Explore Feira Hippie de Ipanema
Shop at the Saara flea market
Watch a Flamengo football match
Tour the Maracanã Stadium
Sugarloaf Mountain
Sunset drinks at Praia do Arpoador
Experience a Baile Funk party
Indulge in steak and fries
Visit Tijuca National Park

One of the highlights of our trip was the Rocinha Favela Walking Tour. It takes you through Rocinha, the largest favela in Latin America and gives you a glimpse into its history. The tour kicks off at the market and from there you get off the motorbikes to reach the main area. Life in the favelas isn’t easy, many people face tough conditions but the sense of community is incredible. Locals look out for each other, some gangs hold more influence than the government often stepping in to provide a form of protection. One thing you’ll notice in the favelas are the chaotic power cables. Electricity is often “free” here thanks to illegal connections, but it’s not exactly reliable and can be dangerous.

Visiting Christ the Redeemer is a Rio must. Hop on the cog train to the top. It’s windy, it’s packed, and getting a pic with the man himself is a challenge, but it’s all part of the experience.

Another cool attraction we did was Sugarloaf Mountain. Hike or take the cable car up, I’d recommend timing it for sunset. The views are insane, and there’s a DJ (overrated) and a few spots to grab a drink or snack. A pretty nice way to wrap up your day.

FAVELA IN RIO, ROCHINA

CHRIST THE REDEEMER

NIGHTLIFE!

Rio de Janeiro is the king of nightlife, not just for the vibes but also for the affordability. The streets are alive with live music and wild street parties. They throw the biggest New Year’s Eve and Carnival celebrations, and they’ve hosted major events like the 2014 World Cup Final and the 2016 Olympics.

In Santa Teresa, the tiled steps by Chilean artist Jorge Selarón was a cool spot to just hang out, day or night, both fun. And the caipirinhas around here are way cheaper, and you get more for your money.

For places to drink and party in Rio, these are your go-tos:

Bosque Bar
Boteco Belmonte in Leblon
Bar do More in Ipanema
Parque Bar
Botafogo

SAMBA!

Samba is like the soul of Rio. There are samba parties all over the place! You must visit Pedra do Sal for a true Rio experience. We went on a Monday and it was packed. Keep an eye out on your bags. The streets in Santa Tereza always have Samba on, Feira da Glória on Sundays, Samba do Trabalhador on Mondays, and Cacique de Ramos are worth checking out.

SAMBA AT PEDRO DO SOL

BAILE FUNK!

Every Sunday there’s a baile funk party in Rocinha, Rio’s largest favela. The event is heavily guarded with security forces visible in the crowd, carrying handguns and assault rifles. Baile funk, or 'favela music,' has a heart-thumping bass and a hypnotic rhythm that sounds a bit like 'boom cha cha boom cha’. It’s raw, real, and uniquely Rio. These parties aren’t just in Rocinha, they're hosted in other favelas, community centres, and hidden places like homes or warehouses. To find one, ask locals or your hostel. The most authentic experiences are in the favelas, and there are also secret invite-only parties that are harder to find but unforgettable. Drugs are fully displayed on tables and sold out the front on these streets. You’re not allowed to have your phone out in these areas. Since I couldn’t take photos, I found someone who has. Vincent Rosenblatt, who lives and works in Rio, has documented the underground Baile Funk scene. His photos are insane, check them out!

PHOTOGRAPHS BY VINCENT ROSENBLATT

WHERE TO STAY

Ipanema, Copacabana, Flamengo and Botafogo are the most popular places to stay with plenty of hotel and hostel options, and are all well connected via the metro. Santa Teresa and Lapa are popular areas with backpackers as they’re generally cheaper. If you’re backpacking I highly recommend staying at Books hostel, its rated the best hostel in South America. You don’t even have to be staying here to hang out. Join their WhatsApp group and get the lowdown on the best parties and things to do.

FOOD AND DRINKS

In Brazil, acai is everywhere, in bowls, smoothies, or as a quick snack, and it’s so cheap. You’ll also find steak, fries, and rice with black beans pretty much everywhere you go, it’s the national dish and it’s so good. This will be high on your list. And then, of course the Caipirinha. Sweet, sour, refreshing, and light, a potent concoction. That sugar-to-liquid ratio is wild, but damn brother...it’s like crack, so goddamn good.

SHOPPING

One of my favourite spots was the Ipanema Market, which locals call Feira Hippie de Ipanema. It’s open every Sunday and is full of cool local finds like handmade crafts, jewellery, and artwork. I picked up two amazing hippy tops and a belly chain.

Also, check out the Saara flea market in downtown Rio. There are heaps of cheap jersey stores, I grabbed two jerseys for just 30 Brazilian reais each. There are markets all over Rio, though. There’s one along Copacabana Beach that opens in the evening and stays open late, as well as a few others scattered across the city. If malls are your thing, there’s plenty of choice in Rio. Ipanema has a nice street full of shops, definitely check out one of the hundred Havaianas stores!

The Perfect Day in Rio de Janeiro

Start with an iced coffee and pão de queijo at a local café in Ipanema, Nusa Café Bistrô was our gringo go to every morning. Then head to the beach and choose Ipanema :) or Copacabana for some beautiful views. Grab a Caipirinha and soak up the sun.

For shopping, check out Feira Hippie de Ipanema for cute finds, or head to the Saara flea market for cheap jerseys. For lunch, enjoy traditional Brazilian dishes at a boteco in Santa Teresa or Lapa. Stick around and dive into Rio’s nightlife, sip drinks at Bosque Bar or Bar do Mineiro, and end the night with samba at Pedra do Sal or a Baile Funk party. If you’re after a more chilled evening, catch the sunset at Praia do Arpoador, then finish with a late-night açaí and Caipirinha to cap off your Rio adventure.

That’s a wrap on my time in Rio! If you’re in town, definitely add day trips to Cabo Frio, Paraty, Saquarema, or any of the cool nearby spots to your list. I’ll jump into my time in these places below.

IPANEMA BEACH

PARATY

Paraty is an amazing little hippy town tucked between Rio and São Paulo, and I fell in love with it. It’s a must for anyone looking for some hippie magic. Praça da Matriz street is where it’s all at, with bars, restaurants, and live music every night. We were there during a festival, so after shopping for cool handmade stuff and checking out the street vendors, we had caipirinhas and danced all night. We met some awesome locals, everyone here is super friendly. We stayed at Che Lagarto our go-to chain in Brazil, and this one was by far the best. Manuê Sucos in Paraty is an awesome spot for breakfast and açaí. Don’t skip the açaí in Brazil it’s so refreshing and cheap!

Our favourite beach was Trindade Beach just 30 minutes out of town. Very cool, very hippie, and very linda. I loved the vibe of this town, the markets, the vendors, and the people. It’s also where I met a very interesting Brazilian free spirit who tried to sell me magic mushrooms (even with the language barrier). Our energy clicked, and he ended up hanging out with me and some friends at the festival that weekend. I actually came across a few free spirits in Brazil, and it was pretty obvious who’d done ayahuasca.

If your budget allows definitely go for a private boat tour. We cruised around, swam with fish, and had lunch on a little island with puppies. Paraty also has amazing waterfalls. Tobogã is a must, it’s this huge slippery rock you can slide down into the waterfall, like a murderous slide. And Poço do Tarzan’s another spot to check out. Overall, Paraty is very relaxed and I felt safe the whole time.

Heres the Perfect day:

Kick off with an açaí bowl and fresh juice at Manuê Sucos. Wander around Praça da Matriz for handmade crafts, cool street vibes, and live music. If you’re feeling adventurous, do a private boat tour, jump off the boat, swim around the turquoise waters, and grab lunch on a dreamy island. Linda, linda, linda!

If you’re on a budget, Trindade Beach is your go-to. Grab a caipirinha at the beach bar, then just chill all day in this tropical hideaway. Don’t forget to check out the hippie markets while you’re in town. Later, try a moqueca at Banana da Terra or if Mexican food’s more your vibe head to Frida y Diego for something spicy. Finish off with a caipirinha obviously around Praça da Matriz.

TRINITY BEACH, PARATY

PARATY STREETS

BUZIOS

Rio got a bit chaotic, especially during the Rock in Rio festival when hostel prices went through the roof. So, we decided to switch it up and head to Búzios. Búzios is where both locals and tourists go to kick back and chill the freak out. Rent a buggy, cruise around the island town, go to any beach, go snorkeling, and sip drinks all day with 10/10 beachside service. It’s just a 2.5 hour bus ride from Rio and trust me it’s so worth it. We stayed at Che Lagarto, of course. The vibes were a bit off, not sure what was going on, but it was just a 2 minute walk from the bus stop. Easy access at least! Every day was a lazy day, pretty standard. Breakfast, beach, caipirinhas. Safe to say I drank my body weight in caipirinhas while I was in Brazil. Açai was everywhere, insanely cheap, and so good. While in Búzios, we hit up Foca Beach, Praia do Forno, and Praia dos Ossos. Praia dos Ossos was my favourite, super sweet vibes where you can sip caipirinhas while tanning in the chairs right in the water. There’s a minimum spend at these places, but it’s not much. Didn’t go but Arraial do Cabo is definitely a must from what I’ve heard and seen. It’s very close to Búzios, but we didn’t get the chance to go. It’s known as the “Brazilian Caribbean,” with white sand beaches, turquoise waters, and tropical vibes.

ILAH GRANDE

From Rio, it’s a 2 hour bus and 40 minute boat ride to Ilha Grande. We came from Paraty and ended up trekking along the beach at night with backpacks to reach our hostel, Che Legarto. Felt pretty exotic not gonna lie. Ilha Grande’s more of a couple’s spot, but it’s chill for solo travellers too. The beach is lined with cute restaurant setups. I didn’t get enough time to explore, but Ilha Grande’s a hotspot for snorkelling, diving, and cool hikes. Go to Lopes Mendes Beach for some sun and surf, (it’s one of Brazil’s most beautiful beaches). If you’re feeling adventurous, hike up to Pico do Papagaio for sunrise. We only stayed 24 hours because of the gloomy weather, but I wish we’d stuck around longer to give this tropical paradise a proper shot.

SAQUAREMA

If you were after a chill beach town to kick back and catch some waves, Saquarema’s the place. About 1.5-2 hours from Rio, it was the perfect escape for me and my friend before heading back to the city chaos. Around September, there weren’t many hostels but we lucked out with Green House Hostel, this super relaxed, homely spot near Itaúna Beach. We were the only guests, so it kind of felt like crashing in a boys’ share house. Cool, weird, but chill. There was a bit of a language barrier with the staff, but we made it work with Google Translate (except for when they sent us to a fake supermarket in the bush with wild stray dogs). We spent our days sipping coffees at Vila Coffee and tanning at Praia da Vila. Bit sad I couldn’t surf in this surf haven, but my leg was wrapped up from a motorbike-related casualty in Rio city. Now I’ve got a nice big scar to remind me every day. Surf lessons were too expensive anyway.

GUAPIMIRIM

Guapimirim, ever heard of it? Yeah me neither until my friend decided to leave Brazil and I started spiralling because I wasn’t ready to go home :( That’s when I found a volunteer gig at a guesthouse through Worldpackers. Kinda random I know. I had no clue where Guapimirim even was but turns out it’s only an hour from Rio. So there I was solo in the Brazilian jungle. I got into the jungle routine, running to waterfalls and rock pools twice a day, swimming, then back to do some gardening and clean the attic. I got a bit bored and lonely to be honest, it was just me and the owner. But the simplicity was nice, no internet, no distractions, just reading, running and swimming. Actually the no internet was shit, especially when I was trying to leave the jungle. I had to stand in the pouring rain at midnight at this random bus stop (with a crackhead next to me) waving my arms like a weirdo to get the bus to stop. It's called Cabane Paradis and it's wonderful, no tourists, just pure Brazilian paradise.

Here’s the to-do list I made when planning my trip to Guapimirim (only managed to tick off the first 3 though):

Waterfall Concordia ✔️
Cachoeira da Concórdia (waterfalls & rock pools) ✔️
Poço Verde (rock pools) ✔️
Cascatas do Garrafão (climbing down big waterfalls)
Pedra do Sino (hiking)
Rio Soberbo (more rock pools)

CABANE PARADIS

SAO PAULO

Incredibly, we’ve gotten this far into a Brazil piece without talking about São Paulo. But I wanted to save it for last because this city deserves its moment. São Paulo is the most populated city in South America with around 12 million people. Yep 12 million. It’s massive. Double Rio. And while Rio and São Paulo are both iconic, they’re totally different beasts. Rio’s got that chill, beachy vibe, but São Paulo’s got a Melbourne kind of energy thats cool, stylish, and buzzing. So if you’re heading there definitely leave the thongs and jerseys at home and dress up, this city knows what’s up.

São Paulo’s cleaner, more polished, and super multicultural. The people here are not all rocking the classic tanned Brazilian look I expected. And if you're a foodie, this city’s got some serious eats, from street food to bougie restaurants. São Paulo can be pricey, but it all depends on where you go and what you’re after. It’s just a short flight from Rio so you can easily hop between the two and soak in both cities’ unique vibes. During our time there, we explored everything from museums to cool streets like Beco do Batman, where street art is the main attraction. We explored the markets, libraries, and of course went out for dinners and drinks. Lucky for us a friend hosted us which saved us heaps of money. Plus, flying into São Paulo from Bolivia was way cheaper than we expected. So yeah, it’s a city that’s worth the hype, very different energy compared to Rio, and that’s what makes it special.

Cool Stuff to Try:

Party on Augusta Street
Watch a Corinthians or Palmeiras football match
Chill at Ibirapuera Park
Wander Vila Madalena and check out the street art at Beco do Batman
Feast on Brazilian barbecue
Zen out at the Botanical Gardens
Smash a mortadella sandwich at the Mercadão
Visit the São Paulo Museum of Art (MASP)

BECO DO BATMAN

PINACOTECA DE SÃO PAULO

SOUL BOTEQUIM

Alright, let’s talk about some other spots in Brazil. Some I’ve already mentioned but there's a few that didn’t make the cut this time around, definitely on my list for next time.

Down in the Southern Region you have Foz do Iguaçu (hi Iguassu Falls), Curitiba, and Florianópolis. Best time to go? December to February. But Florianópolis is a hotspot during peak season and the traffic is notoriously bad. So pro tip: rent a scooter. The place is also a favourite for remote workers and backpackers, so you can chill in one of the cafes around Lagoa where the vibe’s always good.

In the South-East, you’ve got the big hitters: São Paulo, Paraty, Ilha Grande, Rio de Janeiro, and Ouro Preto. The sweet spot for these is November to March, but I went in September and it was still awesome, just a little rain here and there.

Moving over to the East Coast, Recife’s old town and beaches are a must see. Maceió I’ve heard has some of the best beaches in Brazil. Salvador is the birthplace of samba and capoeira, and the energy there is next level.

Then there’s the Northern Region, with Manaus and the Amazon. I didn’t make it to the Amazon this time (it’s remote and driving there is a no-go), but you’ll likely fly into Manaus International Airport to get there. It’s a bucket-list destination for sure. Once you’re there, it’s like stepping into another world. Maybe one day when I’m older I’ll get lost in the rainforest learning about the wild flora and fauna, and sailing down the river.