HA GIANG LOOP
Vietnam
Life in Vietnam? Chill and Cheap. Vietnam’s easily one of my favourite places I’ve ever been. The nature’s unreal, the pho is amazing, the cities are loud in the best way, and it’s all super cheap. There’s nothing that beats exploring a country on a motorbike and this is the best place to do it. When we landed I was like yep, this is actually my first time backpacking.
Vietnam’s got nearly 100 million people so yeah, the cities get noisy and hectic if you’re backpacking, but that buzz is part of the fun and I loved it. You can still find quiet corners to just chill out. The whole vibe is pretty laid back and it changed how I see life lol.
Trekking through Vietnam was a total switch-up from Europe. So much greener, cheaper, and more spontaneous. Best way to backpack is not to overthink it, have a rough idea of where you wanna go, then just wing it. You’ll learn how to be thrifty with your dongs (the currency).
Most people go either north to south or the other way around, so you keep bumping into the same travellers. Kinda makes it easy to make friends. Half the wildest travel stories I’ve heard start with “when I was backpacking in Southeast Asia.” Hostels can feel a bit like schoolies tbh, drinks, parties, chaos. It’s a vibrant party culture where every hour feels like happy hour. Fun but not always the vibe. When I needed a break I’d go read somewhere quiet or take a bike ride through the rice fields.
Getting around is easy. Night buses and overnight trains are super common. To do the whole thing properly give it at least four weeks if you can. It felt safe overall and the people were lovely, minus the time my phone was stolen out of my hand, and a couple other things that I got myself into. Me and my friend did a month there in May 2023, and I’d go back in a heartbeat. When our visa ran out, we took off to Laos.
HA GIANG LOOP
Ho Chi Minh
Backpacking with my favourite travel companion, this is where our beautiful adventure kicked off. One of the highlights was sending cute postcards back home from Saigon Central Post Office. The building’s actually stunning, designed by Gustave Eiffel, the same architect of the Eiffel Tower.
We chilled at the Cafe Apartments, a super quirky spot for a drink. You go in through what looks like a garage, pay a tiny fee for the lift, and then each floor is full of different cafes and stores. Come for the novelty, stay for the iced coffee.
The roads are absolute madness. I’ve never seen anything like it. It’s an army of motorcyclists. When you are crossing the road don’t think, just walk, they’ll go around you. Sounds insane but somehow it works. At night we wandered over to Bui Vien Walking Street and wow it’s crazy. Flashing lights, music blasting, girls dancing on podiums, promoters pulling at you, and people trying to sell you everything. It felt like I landed in the Mario Kart Waluigi Pinball map. It was so wild to see something like this in person.
The next day we did a half day guided tour to the Cu Chi Tunnels. Super interesting if you’re into history, it gives you a glimpse into the war from the Vietnamese perspective. We saw the booby traps, secret passageways, trap doors, and underground bunkers. It's hard to imagine people actually lived down there for 15 years. Tour guide was really boring though.
Mui Ne
To get to this little coastal spot we caught a sleeper bus from Ho Chi Minh. Took about four hours. It was our first time on one and it was sick. Full AC, curtains and proper reclining seats where you could fully lie down. Every stop was at some random little pho place run by locals and the food hit every time. Mui Ne relatively unknown I think but it’s got some pretty cool stuff going on. There’s an actual desert there. We checked out both the red and white sand dunes. Rented a quad for $40 AUD for a 10-minute ride which was a bit of a tourist trap but still fun to hoon around on. Favourite part of this tour was the Fairy Stream. A unique forest walk bare foot in the stream. The Fairy Stream is coloured by soft clay that crumble down to shore from the red canyon. It was so cool and felt nice on the feet. It started to pour down and it felt really exotic. I also got to hold a massive snake. We stayed at iHome Backpacker Resort which was super cute. Little shack-style huts and a decent sleep. After that, we were off to Da Lat, another four hours away.
RED SAND DUNES, MUI NE
WHITE SAND DUNES, MUI NE
Da Lat
Da Lat was one of my favourite spots. After all the chaos and heat of the cities, Da Lat was such a nice change. It's a relaxing little city with lush greenery and cooler temperature. Everything moves slower here, which was exactly what I needed. There are heaps of vintage shops and thrift markets around town which I loved. We went to this massive one called Khu Chợ Đồ Cũ Đà Lạt. It was our first time going and so much to look at - clothes, shoes, accessories, fresh fruit and veggies all for cheap. It had such a local feel to it.
The nature is beautiful. There are green hills, waterfalls, springs, and valleys everywhere. You can go canyoning, white-water rafting, and mountain biking. I went on an alpine coaster that flies through Datanla Forest and it was so much fun. If you're a coffee person, Da Lat is your dream. Da Lat knows how to do coffee right. I didn’t even know Vietnam was the second biggest coffee producer in the world after Brazil, but it makes sense now. There are cafes everywhere, and most of them come with a peaceful view. I got addicted to coconut iced coffees. I had one every day minimum. One of my favourite cafes was One More Coffee. It’s Aussie-run and everything tasted amazing. The bathroom had Michael Leunig cartoons and poems on the walls. It was deep, weird, and cute, I loved it.
Maze Bar was a whole other experience. It’s hard to explain but it’s a cave maze and your aim is to get to the rooftop. I can’t believe something like this is real. It’s weird, it’s trippy, and you won’t forget it. We stayed at King Kong Hostel I think it was about $9 aud a night. It was friendly, quiet, and cozy. Big love to Luje and Eloise who made it feel like home.
Nha Trang
This wasn't on our plan, but it felt right to go with the flow. Sometimes, the unexpected turns out to be the best. This spot was surprisingly peaceful with a laid-back beach atmosphere. We lounged, drank Vietnamese coffee, and people-watched. We also explored the Po Nagar Temples, an interesting visit. We wrapped ourselves in robes, removed our shoes, and stepped into one of the temples where you you engage in prayer rituals and burn incense sticks. Riding on the back of a motorbike along the beach to reach the temples was one of the highlights. I got my nails freshly pampered and then we were off on the bus to our next stop. Even though our visit was brief, there seemed to be a world of activities to explore in this place from mud baths to exploring Yang Bay Waterfalls, visiting local markets, or taking local hiking and biking tours.
Hoi An
Hoi An is a special place, a cute little town with great food, a relaxed atmosphere, and lots of photo opportunities. My favourite activity was biking through the rice fields, where we discovered by chance the coolest and most serene restaurant called Chic Chillax, a tranquil, quiet garden nestled amidst the rice fields with vibrant coloured decor, bamboo paths, and sculptures. We relaxed there, sipping iced tea, and it was the most wonderful experience.
My friend and I booked the Hoi An Cooking and Boat Tour, a really fun half day adventure. We did some crab fishing on banana boats, which was a quirky experience. Then, we had our cooking class set in a lush garden. We made some really tasty and fresh dishes, including fried spring rolls, chicken papaya salad, Vietnamese rice pancakes, and fish in a clay pot, all absolutely divine. I can't choose my favourite.
We stayed at Mad Monkeys, an Aussie hotspot with a constant party vibe. There were fun games and events every night. My friend and I aced beer pong one night and then dominated bingo the next, a story we'll probably never stop retelling. We ventured to Tiger Tiger Bar and Why Not Bar for pub crawls, but it got rowdy and felt unsafe around those streets. If you're not completely intoxicated, it might not be your scene. Plus, Tiger Tiger had only one star on Tripadvisor last time I checked. Across from Tiger Tiger was a $10 street tattoo joint. Obviously I got a matching tattoo with my friend. It didn't hold up well since we ignored the aftercare. Good times, though. Overall, a city that's both beautiful and peaceful during the day.
BASKET BOAT & COOKING CLASS TOUR, HOI AN
BICYCLE RIDE, HOI AN
Hai Van Pass
To put it simply, it was a wild ride. What's the Hai Van Pass? I only learned about it when we reached Hoi An. It's a stunning mountain route in Vietnam that connects the cities of Da Nang and Hue. The road snakes its way up through the steep hills, surrounded by lush tropical jungles overlooking the South China Sea. Back in 2008, Jeremy Clarkson from Top Gear called the Hai Van Pass motorbike tour 'a deserted ribbon of perfection.'
This day was perfect. We had our hostel send our bags from Hoi An to Hue, rented some mopeds, and off we flew. The tour provider sent us a map with cool stops to explore. We checked out Marble Mountain, took lots of photos at each stop, and enjoyed fresh oysters and veggie noodles at a beachside restaurant. One of my highlights was stopping to admire all the animals along the way, baby cows, goats, buffalo, and puppies.
Riding the 21 kilometer long Hai Van Pass is a must, even better when you ride yourself. Please don't take the bus, it goes through a tunnel and skips one of the most beautiful coastal drives in the world. It took us an entire day because of several stops, but it was so worth it. We came across some heavy rain for a couple of hours, but then the sun came back out. This is seriously one of the best things I've ever done.
Hue
Hue was a cool spot, a well-preserved city and very laid-back. We didn't really do much here except eat and chill at cafes and restaurants all day. One of my favourite places was Gecko Restaurant. I had chicken pho, papaya salad, watermelon juice, and ginger soda, all for $18 AUD. It's crazy how cheap and delicious everything is here.
Hue is actually known for its tasty cuisine, so make sure to eat your way around. The city is right by the Perfume River, with lots of ancient tombs and beautiful countryside. We got sucked into taking a cruise along the Perfume River in a dragon boat, which was pretty nice. If you only have one day in Hue, the Royal Tombs and Citadel are must see relics of Vietnam’s rich past.
Ninh Binh
Ninh Binh was a blissful place to visit for two nights. Every day, you'll wake up amidst misty mountains. Our 10 hour sleeper bus journey from Hue wasn't as bad as expected, you get used to it.
My favourite activity was the Hang Mua viewpoint, very sweaty but worth it. The climb is pretty tough but the panoramic view of Tam Coc and the dragon was crazy. I treated myself to some fresh coconut water at the end of the hike and explored the dreamy lotus garden, it was so peacefully surreal. We also took a boat ride through the stunning Tam Coc rice fields, with a boatman rowing using his feet. It poured with rain a bit, but it was still beautiful.
Our stay at Coc Central Bungalow which was super cute, with river and mountain views. One night it rained so hard that all the power went out before we could have dinner. On our last night, we had a memorable dinner at the popular "Family Restaurant," where I tried roasted duck, it was so good. The Ninh Binh region is also famous for its goat meat. Our friend Luje treated us to a farewell dinner, he's the best. Then we went out for pints that only cost 60 aud cents, so good.
Ha Long Bay
Took a 4 hour bus ride to Ha Long Bay for a party cruise with Oasis Bay Tour. Our luck with cruises hasn't been great, it didn't really live up to the party expectation. But, we made the most of it thanks to the 3 for 2 cocktail deal, which doesn't make sense tbh. The bar bill gets charged to your room number at the end which is dangerous but we threw in a few different room numbers. Bad karma coming our way. The food was incredible, michelin-quality Vietnamese food. Stealing the food art and sneaking it back to our room was absolutely hilarious. The night turned into dancing and screaming into the mic after card games, and we had fun kayaking and meditating at a hidden cove. Cruising through the emerald green waters through thousands of islands reminds me of Thailand.
Cát Bà Island
The cruise brought us to Cat Ba, where we spent one night. We hiked up Ngu Lam peak in the wild national park surrounded by a huge jungle. The air at the top was unreal and so was the scenery. The hike's about 45 minutes each way and it can get slippery. My friend nearly took a cliff dive, bit of a thrill to watch. Cat Ba gets busy at night with lots of people. On our evening stroll we found these fat sea worms that legit looked like a penis. They're called Urechis unicinctus, and it was honestly one of the funniest things I've seen. We balanced three people and four backpacks on a single motorbike on our way to the Hanoi bus, a physics masterpiece. Language barrier with locals was frustrating. Overall, a laid-back place with good food.
Hanoi
Hanoi is the Vietnamese capital and it’s full of energy. I loved it. We stayed in the Old Quarter and partied at Ta Hien Hanoi Beer Street, a crazy spot that closes to traffic at night. It's known for bánh mì and phở, with a mix of bars, pubs, and clubs. Most nights we hit up Aoki Bar. Walking the night streets in Hanoi was so different to Ho Chi Minh beer street. Friendly staff, good vibes, no grabbing, and lots of free shots. One night the police patrolled and everything closed up briefly. Venues should close at 1am (official curfew), but we often partied past that.
On the second night as I was walking home with friends, a Vietnamese person on a motorcycle snatched my phone from my hands. Phones get stolen in Vietnam all the time so stay alert when traveling. If that wasn’t bad enough we had to pass through the meat market at 4am. It felt like walking through a war zone with animal bones, blood, and things being chopped up whole. It was some appalling shit. The next day a Vietnamese worker at Hanoi Central Backpackers Hostel gave me his old phone to keep. This was way too nice, not many people, especially strangers would do this. Actually no one would do this. I ended up giving him some money. Getting the police report was one of the most frustrating things I've ever done.
During the day we explored the markets and found Tired City, an awesome retail store. They have some really cool t-shirts and art. Here's the link. We also visited Train Street and though it was cool. I suggest checking the time the trains come and to go at night. You needed to be a customer to get in. We were lucky to be invited, but it restricted us from exploring other cafes.
Hanoi is also famous for its egg coffee. I went to the ‘The Note Coffee’, a three-story building with walls fully covered in posted notes. My friend and I tried the famous egg coffee which is a coffee made using a whole egg whipped with sweetened condensed milk. The egg-froth is like a floating cloud, it tasted incredible. We left cute notes for each other, I absolutely loved this place and definitely recommend! I also have to shout out the best beef noodle salad in town, Bun Bo Nam Bo. I went there twice and I still dream about it.
I fell in love with the hostel dog, Cookie. She was a tiny chihuahua who roamed around, went up and down elevators on her own, and slept on the hostel stairs. One night she came into our room and tugged at my friend's blanket. She’s just the cutest thing ever I love her.
Ha Giang
I can happily say I completed the amazing 4 day Ha Giang loop by motorbike, which I think is one of the most beautiful destination in all of Vietnam. It’s located in the north part bordering China and every turn is full of scenic views.
So the journey began with one of the worst sleeper bus rides I’ve been on with constant honking all night as the bus passed cars and motorcycles. I was seated next to an elderly Vietnamese man who tried to touch me in my sleep wtf. Day one began early, we packed lightly and were paired with our Easy Riders. Mine was pretty quiet the whole 4 days, I don’t even know his name. I was really excited but extremely fatigued from the sleepless bus ride. The first ride felt really long and I fell asleep on the back of the motorbike a few times. It rained everyday but I trusted my driver despite zero visibility. The best purchase I ever made on this trip was a full-body poncho with pants.
We booked with Jasmine Tours, a large group of 100, but split into smaller groups during the day and reunited at the organised hostels each night. Although the traditional meals were good, they got really repetitive. Pho for breakfast was a surprise. I learned that Vietnamese have pho for breakfast because it's filling yet not heavy. We took shots of Happy Water every night with dinner and chanted Mot, Hai, Ba, YO! Happy Water is a homemade wine from the locals which tastes like malt sake. It was a fun bonding experience with everyone. Mixing it with Soju was one of my biggest regrets.
We rode on the Tham Ma Pass, one of Vietnam's most dangerous zigzag routes yet the most picturesque. At one of our stops here, traditionally dressed kids braided our hair with flowers. On the last day the rain flooded the road and we had to push the motorbikes through thigh-deep water. It was a pretty hectic experience.
In summary, an incredible four days, unlike anything I've ever experienced before. There were some moments of loneliness and self reflection as I was stuck with my thoughts for hours everyday. Music would have saved me if I had headphones but I also didn’t mind some serious deep reflection. I also had a really sore butt after it all. I'm glad we finished Vietnam with this adventure. We were originally planning to go to Sapa but after the loop we thought it might be underwhelming. So we decided to return to Hanoi and start planning our trip to Laos.
CAFE, NHA TRANG
FOOD MARKET, DA LAT